Soozie Jenkinson is not a household name, but she certainly should be. She is single-handedly responsible for not only dressing more women in the world than any other designer, but she shapes us, moulds us, holds us in and pushes us up.
 
A brand new garment that Soozie is particularly proud of is the "skinny jean thigh slimmer", a cyling short-type garment worn under jeans. It is thin, but incredibly powerful. In stores this week and costing £20, it's sure to be an instant bestseller.
 
(Underwear sets: Left to right, Memory foam bra, £18, no VPL lace knickers, £8;
Strawberry and grey silk DD bra, £16, knickers, £3;
Ivory embroidered bridal bra, £18, matching knickers, £16, with detachable suspenders)
 
Underwear has to follow fashion, too, as well as do a job. With the advent of the T-shirt came the T-shirt bra. The popularity of strapless and asymmetric dresses sent sales of strapless bras soaring. So, what's the undie trend this summer? "The maxi slip," says Soozie. "Ours are made in a fabric called Cool Comfort, meaning you won't feel hot in summer." M&S has come up with many new fabric technologies. It developed bonded lace, which means there are no stitches or seams attaching lace to silk or cotton. The secret support vest was an M&S innovation in 1997, as was the boy short.
 
(Slips: Left to right, Cool Comfort maxi slip, £22.50;
Floral slip in a silk mix, £35, Collette Dinnigan for M&S )
 
Soozie is most proud of the fact that she has revolutionised the design of underwear for bigger women. These days, a woman who needs a bigger bra - anything over a DD, up to the store's largest size, a 44J - has exactly the same choice of colour, fabric and style as a woman who is a common or garden 34B.
 
And what about the criticism among Asian and black customers that "nude" does not take account of their skin colour? "This is a concern, not least because we sell underwear all over the world. We measured the skin tones of 1,000 women, and came up with three different shades of nude: blush, natural and coco." Besides, M&S has a trained lingerie fitter in every store: it fits 8,000 women a week.

 

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